Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
